Tuesday 8th September
I readily admit it: I am risk averse. I wouldn’t say overly so, but the affliction is getting worse as I age. Perhaps I just have a good imagination, and I can always envisage what could go wrong. I’ve had four cycle touring trips cancelled this year, and although I’ve had offers of other trips since March, I have refused them all on the grounds that I didn’t feel safe [due to the Covid-19 pandemic].
So a few weeks ago, when the YHA announced they were opening some hostels, I decided that now was the time to get back on the road. Alone. (Since then, coronavirus cases have increased once more, but I’m still booked into a hostel tonight and tomorrow.)
I first visited Grinton Lodge youth hostel when I was on a cycling tour in 1975 and I have returned several times since to the former hunting lodge, which has the appearance of a castle (if you squint) and occupies a splendid location in Swaledale, North Yorkshire. My initial plan was to ride there, but due to the pandemic the hostel couldn’t supply food which would have meant a lot more to carry, so I changed my plan and decided to drive and take day trips out into the beautiful countryside.
The adventure began today with a very hard ride taking in three of the ‘100 greatest climbs’. Well, I although I rode three of the rides, Garmin begs to differ. It thinks I flew from my lunch stop direct to my afternoon pint at Grinton. (I didn’t). Oddly enough, it got the mileage and climbing right, but cheated me out of climb #57, The Stang. OK, I may not have been challenging the leaders with my time, but at least I did it. I feel very aggrieved.
The weather was mixed. Fog and drizzle on the tops, overcast generally with periods of full sun during the afternoon, but all accompanied by a strong Westerly which made the last hour very difficult. No matter, I’m now settled in a cosy pub enjoying a pint and awaiting my fish pie.
I’m not actually staying in the hostel, but a camping pod in the grounds, which, in truth, is a hard skinned tent. It suits me, though, and best of all, I feel very safe in my own environment.
Wednesday 9th September
Great night’s sleep in the pod listening to the wind howling through the trees. After a DIY breakfast I set off over the first climb I’d planned for today. Annoyingly, this involved riding 3/4 mile downhill to the start and then riding straight back up, but if Simon Warren says that’s what we have to do…
After yesterday’s Garmin disappointment, today I used both Garmin and Strava on my phone in the hope that at least one will tell the truth. Lovely weather in the morning, but still windy. I called in one hotel for a coffee (apparently where James Herriot spent his honeymoon, so they claim). I sanitised at the door, signed the ‘track & trace’ book and was then pointedly ignored by the staff. So I walked out and had a coffee at Aysgarth Falls instead. It was takeaway only and served in a paper cup, but probably half the price. After two more “100 climbs” completed, I returned to the pod to replenish my water bottle and have a snack before setting off to repeat a part of yesterday’s ride. I’m determined to get Garmin to believe that I’ve actually climbed the Stang, and I won’t let a software glitch (or rogue algorithm (!!!)) get in the way. I’m unsure of whether it’s worked because I’m currently having a pint at a pub 3/4 mile from the hostel where the ride finishes. Watch this space.
The Garmin worked today. I can now count The Stang as one of the climbs I’ve completed. And I didn’t need the insurance of the phone’s Strava.
Thursday 10th September
Home again after a busy (and very climby) few days. I felt safe in most establishments, although the ‘Covid rules’ each place employed varied widely. Some were virtually non-existent, while other places required the reading of a page of instructions before entering.
Breakfast today was at the Dales bike centre café in Grinton. I ordered the breakfast baguette and was offered extra filling (of course I said yes) but then I had trouble keeping all the fillings inside! I’m glad I was on my own with no-one watching since it was very messy. Afterwards, I tackled Tan Hill on a very full stomach which might not have been my wisest decision. The last time I took this route I was riding directly into an enormous headwind. Today the wind was more gentle so I made better progress. It was very cold though – I’m glad of my last-minute decision to pack arm warmers.
I was sorry to say goodbye to my camping pod. It was basic, but very snug and comfortable. I reckon I’ll be back before too long. There are still plenty of unridden roads around here.