Monday 5th August 2019
This trip was hatched after reading a book which described the development of the Experimental Aircraft Programme (the EAP) which was built in Lancashire in the early 80s. The aircraft first flew on 8th August 1986, the same day that I was interviewed for a job at British Aerospace where the jet was built. Although I never actually worked on the aircraft, I do have a soft spot for it, and after reading its biography, I decided to go to see it again. After its last flight in 1991 the aircraft spent time at Loughborough University as a training aid before coming to the RAF Museum at Cosford, Shropshire in 2012.
I’m afraid that seeing again it was a sad experience: it looked unloved and in a poor state. Perhaps being prodded and poked by a generation of university students didn’t help, but it desperately needed a lick of paint and some TLC. I felt like lending the staff a track pump so they could put some air in its nosewheel tyre which was almost flat. The rest of the museum was huge, but the many aircraft were too big and close to fully appreciate them and the description boards were very brief. I found it almost more interesting reading the museum website. So I left early and went for a bike ride.
The short ride started at Wilderhope Manor, a National Trust property not far from Telford. The property was built in the late 16th century and is now a youth hostel, and one of the most magnificent I’ve been in.
The purpose of the ride was to tackle Asterton Bank, one of the 100 Greatest Cycling Climbs, which is nearby in the Shropshire Hills. There are two climbs in the book which scale the Long Mynd, a heath and moorland plateau, and I rode the southern one which was rated 10/10 by the book’s author, Simon Warren.
I’m sorry to report that it beat me. The steady 25% incline never relents for about 500m and I found myself so short of breath that twice I had to stop and recover. If I rode sitting in the saddle, I struggled to keep the front wheel on the ground, so I covered much of the early part standing on the pedals wondering whether I should turn back. I’m glad I didn’t give up, but there’s no way you’ll get me back for a re-match. Asterton Bank won fair and square.
I’m not touring this week, just staying in one location and going out for day rides, so on Tuesday I’m doing the last part of Monday’s ride in reverse and trying my hand at the Burway, the second climb up the Long Mynd (only rated 9/10 in the book, so I have a chance!)
In the meantime, I’m soaking up some Elizabethan splendour as one of just a few guests at Wilderhope Manor. This must rate as the grandest and one of the most remote of all English youth hostels. I love it!
Tuesday 6th August 2019
The Burway ‘only’ gets a 9/10 rating, and having cycled it today, I think that 9/10 seems a bit generous. Yes, it’s tough, but nothing like Asterton Bank yesterday – it’s certainly more than 10% easier in my opinion. I managed to climb it all without even thinking about stopping and didn’t need the low gears for much of the climb.
The entire ride today was splendid, with the rain holding off (more or less) and hardly any traffic. Most of the lanes I rode on today’s route were narrow, densely overhung with trees, and many had grass in the centre. There weren’t many villages, but I had a coffee at a lovely café in Clun and bought a tuna sandwich from a general store set up in a shed in Bucknell.
I saw plenty of wildlife, including several buzzards and kestrels, one kite, a large deer and a group of four ferrets, at least I think that’s what they were [Having later consulted Google, I now think that they were polecats]. The ferrets were the only ones close enough or slow enough for me to photograph, so you’ve only my word for it about the rest.
I visited Knighton, which apparently is in Wales, and this was the only time it rained. I looked for a cafe for shelter, but only found a chippy, and so I continued on the ride hoping it was only a shower. As soon as I crossed the river Teme back into England, the rain stopped! It might be a coincidence, but it still happened.
It’s in England, though the town is in Wales
England has dry tarmac
I’ve just enjoyed a substantial meal courtesy of the YHA (they understand cyclists’ needs so well!) and so even though there is nothing for miles around, ‘eating in’ was no hardship. I’m now looking forward to a quiet evening reading whilst enjoying the local beer.
Wednesday 7th August 2019
My final ride on this trip was to visit to Ludlow, a pretty market town a few miles south of my accommodation. My planned route took me away from any major roads and therefore (I suppose inevitably) into the hills once more. Awarding the Shropshire Hills the title of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is very well-deserved. I think the term is more concerned with preserving the natural countryside (in a similar way that National Parks do) than the naming of a pretty tract of land, but this area is certainly splendid. There are hundreds of tiny roads criss-crossing the landscape, but because of the high hedges, hardly any can be seen. These roads are usually narrow, single track affairs with grass growing in the centre, but this appears to keep car drivers off them. I certainly wouldn’t want to drive down any. And if you find yourself behind a refuse truck (as I did), you stay there! I actually stopped by a bench and admired the view for 10 minutes to let him get ahead rather than trying to squeeze past.
Ludlow is a pretty and very busy town, and still markets itself as a regional gastronomic centre. Certainly the tart I had for lunch looked and tasted delicious. I was sat at an outside table in the market square and two passers-by commented on the food!
I had time for a quick zip up the nearby hills Southwest of the town (outside the AONB, but you’d never know it) before catching a very welcome tailwind back to the hostel.
I certainly plan to return to this area – beautiful, unspoilt and quiet with very friendly people.